...does it just feel slow as hell getting to a decent speed with a new layout?
I got to 8-13WPMin the first week or so of learning Dvorak. Now, I continue to have both good times and bad times, but I'm not all that much better; maybe 15-20WPM in general. Well, according to TypeRacer. Every day brings a few new confusions it seems, although I try to avoid them, and ironically very few of them seem to have to do with my QWERTY memory. Mostly mixing up home row keys, like I/U and T/O and E/O and S/O and N/O and Y/O (don't know what it is with that damn O...). Some of them are only temporary, and some are intermittent.
Meanwhile, I don't go to TypeRacer often (maybe once a day) because, honestly, I suck at it. I go there and the combination of the time limit and the WPM being shown in realtime is just a bit too much still and my accuracy (and speed) go straight to hell. I think I just don't have the layout memorized well enough to do speed tests while reading text. Yet--I can go get lyrics to a song at A-Z Lyrics or DarkLyrics and type them pretty well with minimal errors (avoiding the shift key), and things that just come to mind I can type pretty decently also (still slow, but acceptable accuracy for the most part).
I basically feel as if I have gotten somewhere, yet at the same time I haven't.
I can say that I really do feel much more comfortable typing on this layout in all my years on QWERTY, and the weird feeling that I used to get in my right hand and arm in that layout still hasn't come back. The more leveled hand load and reduced finger travel distance can easily be perceived and I honestly wish I would've been taught Dvorak from the start. The major downside? I can't type one-handed any more while eating. Heh.